Located on the coast of the Adriatic Sea, visit Split to experience a truly unique city and one of the most popular choices for travellers in Croatia.
The old town of Split, built within the walls of an ancient Roman palace, is a stunning labyrinth of medieval cobbled streets, archways and towers. In contrast, the Riva Esplanade is a modern street of restaurants and bars that is constantly buzzing with tourists. You can also get to many islands via a short ferry ride. It’s easy to see why Split is so popular.
Split During Low Season
Of all the places in Croatia, I had always wanted to visit Split. I arrived in December so it was not heaving with tourists. In fact, the week nights were very quiet. Because of the time of year, there was to be no visits to any of the islands. Snorkeling and swimming would not be as enjoyable in the freezing waters! Therefore, all of my exploration was on the mainland. Four nights in Split was enough time, I felt, to experience the relaxed atmosphere of this beautiful city.
Food and drink in Split | Where to stay in Split
Things To Do In Split
Croatian National Theatre In Split
The National Theatre is housed in a beautiful building and shows various performances for adults and children throughout the year.
I did not visit the theatre itself but I did enjoy the free photo exhibition that was in front of the theatre. I was under the impression that there is always some exhibit in this area. Map.
Diocletian’s Palace (Old Town)
Built in the 4th century for the Roman emperor Diocletian, the palace takes up around 50% of the old town. I was walking around the old town looking for this huge palace before I realised that I was actually in it. You will definitely get lost in the old town. Google Maps is really pushed to the limit here! A lot of the time, I was unsure whether certain pathways were actual streets or access to private property. It was hard to tell as they looked the same. The old town is a beautiful area to wander. Don’t worry, you will find a way out… eventually!
Golden Gate (Zlatna Vrata)
Located at the north end of the old town, this 4th century stone entrance to the old Diocletian’s Palace is the perfect place to begin your exploration of the old town. Map.
Gregory Of Nin
Huge statue that welcomes you to the Diocletian’s Palace. Apparently, if you rub his big toe, it will bring you good luck! Map.
Marjan Park
To the west of the old town is ‘Marjan Forest Park’ (map), a 170 metre-high hill which offers incredible view points over the city and some interesting sights along its many trails. It’s a popular spot for joggers and climbers or people who just want to escape the city for some cleaner air.
There are a number of access points to the park. I began by walking along the Riva Esplanade and walking along the road that runs to the right of ‘The Church and Monastery of St. Frane’ (map). I followed this road all the way to the top and then turned left until I came to ‘Vidilica’ (map) cafe. It is a steep climb so you may want to rest with a drink here and admire the wonderful views.
Behind the cafe, there is an old Jewish cemetery. There have been no burials here since 1945, for obvious reasons. It was locked when I visited but I have since found out that the cafe will open it up for you, if you wish to take a look inside.
I then continued up the steep path to the left of the cafe. This brought me to the first of many small churches I would see along the way.
From here, I had a choice. I was heading to the viewpoint and there are a number of right turns from this point onward that would have taken me there. However, they were very steep and I had no need to save time so I continued along the same path. It was a nice day and I was enjoying the views.
Eventually, I came to the point where I had to take the road back towards the viewpoint. It was about 20 minutes walk to the viewpoint, meaning I had added 40 minutes to my journey. I was starting to think maybe I should have took the steep option after all. It was an easy walk so I soon decided I had made the right choice.
The viewpoint was easy to find as it has a huge white cross and a Croatian flag. The people of Split are very proud of this flag as for years they had to look up at the Yugoslavian flag. The views from here are the best in the city.
After enjoying the views, I headed back from where I came before continuing the trail. The second part of the trail is more interesting than the first, in my opinion. The views are stunning and I also saw many climbers. Just past the climbers, I saw churches built into the cliffs.
The rest of the walk was all downhill and once I reached the bottom, I had a choice of taking a bus back to the centre of Split or walking. I carried on by foot, though there isn’t really anything of interest to see on this part of the trail.
Stadion Poljud
Futuristic stadium, built in 1979 for the Mediterranean Games and now home to FC Hadjun Split. You will see their club badge painted all over the city. The team was actually founded in Prague by students from Split.
You can go on a guided tour of the stadium. Check if there is a game during your stay but be aware that the supporters are VERY passionate and are known to occasionally be quite violent. Map.
Stadion Stari Plac
‘Stadion Stari Plac’ (map) is FC Hadjun Split’s old ground. It is now host to rugby matches and markets and even the occasional concert. It is run down but worth passing if you are visiting the new stadium.
Trogir Day Trip
Just a 30 minute bus ride from Split, Trogir is another UNESCO site that is definitely worth a half-day visit. The city is a small island, connected to the mainland by bridge. Whilst it is small, it has the same labyrinth-like features of Split old town. This is a place that has changed very little since its medieval heyday. Map.
Is Split Worth Visiting?
Split is truly a unique and beautiful city. Though I travelled off season and unable to visit the islands, the city was definitely impressive enough by itself to justify a visit. The old town is simply stunning.
A couple of places I wanted to visit but didn’t get the chance were ‘Froggyland’ (map), an exhibit featuring hundreds of stuffed frogs in human scanarios, and the ‘Klis Fortress’ (map) which is a bus ride away. Game of Thrones fans should definitely visit here as some of the show was filmed here.
Food and drink in Split | Where to stay in Split
For more information, visit https://visitsplit.com/en/1/welcome-to-split
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