Visit Sarajevo to experience Ottaman-era mosques, Austro-Hungarian buildings and Romanesque churches that have co-existed for centuries, earning the city the title of ‘Jerusalem of Europe’.

Located in a valley at the foot of Mount Trebevic, the city was under constant siege for almost four years in the early 90s, killing almost 14,000 people. Thankfully, the city is now at peace and recovering from its troubled history and enjoying its new status as one of Europe’s top destinations.

Arriving In Sarajevo

The bus from Mostar dropped me at the more central bus station in the city (map). The journey into the city didn’t exactly fill me with excitement. It looked pretty ugly and I was wondering if this would be a poor choice. However, Mostar had also left a negative first impression and I ended up loving the city. Fingers crossed.

Where To Stay In Sarajevo

These are some of the best budget hostels in Sarajevo, according to user reviews. These are affiliate links to the Agoda web site. I receive a small amount for any bookings made through these links at no extra cost to you.

• Hostel Walter Sarajevo
• Hostel Balkan Han
• Hostel Franz Ferdinand
• The Good Place Hostel

Hostel Franz Ferdinand

I stayed at ‘Hostel Franz Ferdinand’ (map). It was a 20 minute walk from the bus station which placed it in a fantastic location, just metres away from the main central area. Check-in was straightforward and the staff were very friendly and I got the sense that they were very keen that I have a good stay.

The hostel has a World War I theme and is named after the former heir to the throne of Austria-Hungary whose assassination led to World War I.

The rooms are basic but adequate and the bathroom could have done with a bit of renovating. I stayed in the annex part of the hostel which had its own kitchen. There was a basic breakfast of eggs and toast each morning. The hostel has free beer and rakia nights to help guests get to know one another.

I extended my stay here for another two nights, much to the delight of the hosts. It is a decent base from which to explore the city.

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I paid £44 for a 6 night stay in a 6 bed dorm with shared bathroom.

Click here to book a stay at Franz Ferdinand Hostel.

Things To Do In Sarajevo

For a city that is best known for the event that led to the first world war and for the longest running siege in world history, Sarajevo has, against the odds, become an increasingly popular destination for thousands of tourists.

Abandoned Bobsleigh Track

Perhaps the place I wanted to visit the most during my visit to Sarajevo, the bobsleigh track (map) was built for the 1984 Winter Olympics. Locals were immensely proud that their city had been chosen to host the Olympics. Little did they know how their lives would dramatically change for the worse just a few years later. The track was used as an artillery position by Bosnian Serb forces.

You can get to the tracks by hiring a taxi or by taking the cable car. I decided to take the cable car but when I reached the departure station, I was told it was not running because of the weather. A slight breeze! I had put off my visit the previous two days as it had been raining. This was my only opportunity and I was not going to miss it.

I asked how I could reach there by walking and they laughed.

“Too steep… too far.”

I decided to ignore the advice of the locals and set off for what would prove to be one hell of a hike!

The journey began by walking through the residential area leading up to the mountain. I passed a graveyard where the majority of the graves were from the war period.

The hike started to become increasingly steep but the views were incredible.

At the top of the residential area, it was ridiculously steep. How do people live here? It was then time to enter the forest. I was a little anxious about this part as I had read online about people being mugged at knife point. Locals argue that this has not happened for many years and I thankfully didn’t have any problems.

Coming out of the forest, I came across some ruins which I knew meant the steepest part of the hike was behind me and I was almost there.

After more hiking, the track came into view.

From here, I made my way to the start of the track.

I then began the journey back down the tracks.

The tracks are covered in graffiti.

Heading back down was much easier, though it was slippy. The views were incredible.

Bascarsija Mosque

Located in the city centre, ‘Bascarsija Mosque’ (map) was badly damaged during the war and had to go massive reconstruction. It is not known when it was originally built but it was mentioned in a manuscript in 1528. The call to prayer in the afternoon is human and not a pre-recording.

Eternal Flame

A memorial to the military and civilian casualties of WWII, it was created on April 6th 1946. It has been constantly burning since then, apart from during the war when gas supplies were cut off to the city. Map.

Free Walking Tour Sarajevo

A great way to discover the city. I took part on my first day. I was surprised that the tours were still happening as it was the low season but the tour went ahead, despite me and a girl from Malaysia being the only customers. The tour takes in the following landmarks:

• Old Orthodox Church
• Baščaršija Square – Sebilj Foutain
• Oldest Street in Sarajevo
• Sarajevo City Hall
• Caravan Saray – Morića Han
• Gazi Husrev-bey’s Mosque and Clock Tower
• Meeting of Cultures Spot
• Jewish Synagogue
• Cathedral of Sacred Jesus’ Heart
• Sarajevo Roses
• Hotel Europe
• Assasination Spot – Latin bridge

For more information, check out https://meetbosnia.com/tour/free-walking-tour-sarajevo/.

Gallery 11/07/95

I had tried to visit the ‘Museum of Crimes Against Humanity and Genocide’ but it was closed every time, despite the advertising board still being out on the street (I have since found out it is permanently closed). I came across the ‘Gallery 11/07/95’ (map) which is located next to the main cathedral.

The museum focuses on the slaughter that took place in the town of Srebrenica in 1995. It is a modern museum with interactive elements and an incredible gallery. Two movies are shown and they will leave you shocked and, more than likely, in tears at the pure terror that befell the innocent people of Bosnia during this period. Tickets are valid for 2 days so you don’t need to rush. A must-visit.

Gallery 11/07/1995 Opening Times: 10 am – 6 pm.
Gallery 11/07/1995 Entrance Fee: 12 KM entrance, 4 KM audio guide.

History Museum Of Bosnia And Herzegovina

Museum of Bosnian history with artifacts and temporary exhibitions. Offers an insight into the lives of Bosnians before, during and after the war. Map.

History Museum Of Bosnia And Herzegovina Opening Times: 9 am – 9 pm.
History Museum Of Bosnia And Herzegovina Entrance Fee: 5 KM

Latin Bridge

The site of the assassination of Franz Ferdinand which led to the outbreak of World War I. The guide of the free walking tour said that feelings towards the assassin were still mixed amongst the people of Sarajevo. Map.

Miljacka River

Take a walk alongside the Miljacka River to see the city’s bridges and some interesting sculptures.

Sacred Heart Cathedral

The largest cathedral in Bosnia and Herzegovina and located just 1 minute away from the Franz Ferdinand Hostel (map). I came here for mass on Christmas Eve where it was very busy! During the day, you can take a tour of the richly decorated church. A statue of Pope John Paul II stands outside, in honor of his visit in 1997.

Sarajevo Meeting Of Cultures

Located on Ferhadija Street (map), this is the point at which the two dominant cultures of Sarajevo merge. Facing east, you could be looking at a Turkish bazaar. Turn to the west and you could be looking at a street in Vienna!

Sebilj (Bascarsija)

Barscarsija is a 15th century market square that serves as a gateway to the old town. In the centre of the square is ‘Sebilj’ (map), an 18th century wooden fountain. Legend has it, if you drink from the fountain, you will always return to Sarajevo.

Street Art Of Mostar

Sarajevo doesn’t have the variety of street art found in other cities. Most of the street art is of Monsieur Chat, a cat created by French-Swiss artist Thoma Vuille.

There are some interesting pieces to be found around the city but Sarajevo needs more street art. It would be a great way to educate people about its history.

My favourite street art had to be the David Bowie mural. As a big fan, I would have been very annoyed if I only found out about this after I left, which was almost what happened. The mural is located in the university area (map).

War Childhood Museum

A small but interesting museum featuring artifacts from people who were children during the Bosnian war. The museum is upsetting but educational. Recommended. Map.

War Childhood Museum Opening Times: 11 am – 7 pm, Mon – Sat.
War Childhood Museum Entrance Fee: 10 KM.

Food And Drink In Sarejevo

Traditional Bosnian food can be found all over Sarejevo, particularly in the old town where you can feast on local dishes such as cevapi, burek, agnjetina, bosanskilonac and baklava. Serbians take their coffee seriously and a visit to a traditional coffee shop in the old town of Baščaršija is a must. Sarajevo also has a number of unique bars serving well-priced drinks. Be aware that smoking is allowed almost everywhere here.

Andar

Lovely coffee shop that has stayed in the family for generations, though it used to be a shoe shop. They have kept the memories alive by having a shoe theme through the menus and decor. Great coffee, too. Map.

Balkan Express

No-frills bar that is popular with locals. No live music when I visited but lots of 80s and 90s music playing in the background. A decent bar but nothing essential. Map.

City Pub

This was by far the busiest bar I visited. I was lucky to get a table, it was so full. There was live music on the night I attended. Unfortunately, the beer was really poor. It was my least favourite bar in Sarajevo.  Map.

Index

Quaint coffee shop in the heart of the old town serving traditional Bosnian coffee. With Balkan music playing in the background, this is a great place to soak up the local culture. Map.

Jazzbina

Cool underground bar that hosts live music. I wasn’t in luck on my first visit but on my second visit I enjoyed an acoustic duo playing rock classics and Bosnian folk songs. Map.

Old School Cafe

I came here by accident as I thought it was another bar that I was looking for. I had a local stout beer which was cheap and tasty. It’s a small but cool bar that plays some great music; as well as classic rock, I heard some great 70s Bosnian rock which, unfortunately, Shazam didn’t recognise. Map.

Ort

Nice, chilled bar on the lively Zelinih Beretki. Most of the bars on this street are loud and touristy but this one is more relaxed. I heard some great 70s Bosnian music whilst here. Map.

Pink Houdini

Live jazz bar with a passion for Tom Waits and political slogans. There was no live music when I visited but I was told that the instruments were available for anyone to get up. Very cool interior; one of the best bars in Sarajevo. Map.

Sarajevsko Pub Koturova

Local bar that stays open beyond the hours stated on Google Maps. Occasional live music but generally just a typical local Bosnian bar with cheap bar and filled with smoke. Map.

Shelter Pub

Located in the city centre, ‘Shelter Pub’ (map) is a big cellar bar with live music. I saw a decent duo here. The beer is reasonably priced and the staff were friendly.

Zlatna Ribica

Wonderfully decorated bar in which you will feel like you are sitting in a hidden objects game! Make sure you visit the toilets too! Great music and a fantastic atmosphere. Probably the most quirky bar in Sarajevo. Map.

Is Sarajevo Worth Visiting?

Sarajevo is becoming more popular with each year and it’s easy to see why. It has the charm of an old Turkish town alongside the grand Austro-Hungarian buildings of the west side. Food and drink is cheap and the people are very friendly and welcoming. I extended my stay here and I would recommend it as a short city break option.

For more information, visit http://visitsarajevo.ba/?lang=en