Most famously known for its iconic bridge that connects the east and west of the city, visit Mostar to experience the most heavily bombed Bosnian city in the war that followed the break up of Yugoslavia.

For more than four centuries, Mostar was a city of tolerance with Churches, Mosques and Synagogues occupying the same area. In 1990, the city was all but destroyed and 2,000 people lost their lives as fighting between Croats and Bosniaks intensified. Many religious buildings were destroyed, as was the iconic 15th century bridge.

Following the war, international efforts were made to restore the bridge and in 2004, it was officially opened. The area around the bridge is now a UNESCO World Heritage Site and is the main attraction for tourists.

Arriving In Mostar

I took the early bus from Kotor bus station. It was a 6 hour journey so I was pleased to discover the bus had free WiFi. However, this only worked in Montenegro. Once we crossed the border into Bosnia, it disconnected.

The journey was fine. I had my laptop so watched a couple of films and before I knew it, we were pulling into Mostar bus station. It was a twenty minute walk to my hostel. After enjoying Kotor’s beautiful landscapes, Mostar couldn’t have been more different.

This place was rough! I walked past derelict buildings and I didn’t see any signs of why any tourists would come here. It felt like the kind of area in the UK that you would not want to find yourself in.

I had heard about the buildings filled with bullet holes but I wasn’t expecting them to be so visible. Literally every building served as a reminder of the war. It did nothing to improve my initial impression.

Where To Stay In Mostar

These are some of the best budget hostels in Mostar, according to user reviews. These are affiliate links to the Agoda web site. I receive a small amount for any bookings made through these links at no extra cost to you.

• Hostel Lena-Mostar
• Hostel Musala
• Hostel Miran Mostar
• Hostel David
• Hostel Nina Mostar
• Hostel Bojo
• Hostel Sema

StarMO Hostel

I stayed at a place called ‘starMO Hostel’ (map) which is located just a few minutes walk from the Mostar Bridge. It is a clean, modern hostel and ticks all the required boxes: good WiFi, locker, night light, socket by bed, etc. There was one other guest in my room on the first night but he left the next day and from then on I think I was the only guest in the entire hostel. There is a large communal room and kitchen but annoyingly you are not allowed to make hot food. That is a big negative and it should be made clearer when booking as it does say there is a kitchen. Some travellers might be annoyed by this.

Overall though, it is a decent hostel if you don’t mind climbing hills!

**********

I paid £21 for a three night stay in a 4 bed dorm with shared bathroom.

Things To Do In Mostar

Once I’d settled into my room, it was time to check out Mostar old town. It was totally dark by now which did nothing to lower my anxiety caused by the first impressions. I headed down the dark hill to the main road, where the entrance to the old town was just a minute away.

Suddenly, it all felt completely different. I felt like I’d been transported to a completely different country. Here, it was colourful and much prettier. It was still deadly quiet but it didn’t feel scary anymore.

Craft Beer In Mostar

My plan was to go to a bar called ‘Black Dog Pub’ (map) for a few beers and then head to a restaurant called ‘Food House’ (map) as the hostel I was staying had given me some discount vouchers. However, both places were closed for the low season. I had, however, spotted another bar called ‘Craft Beer Garden Imaimoze’ (map) and this place was open. Empty, but open.

They sold me craft beer from a local brewery and it was delicious. I could have stayed there all night, despite them having the same 4 songs on a constant loop. My hunger was starting to kick in so I had to find somewhere that was open.

Goulash Time

All of the restaurants were either closed or empty. In the end, I was tempted by the goulash option on the menu of a restaurant called ‘Divan’ (map). The restaurant overlooks the Radobolja river but it was too dark to see it anyway.  The food came quickly as I was the only customer. It was just what I needed: tender pieces of beef served with mashed potatoes and soft bread. With a beer, it came to around £6. Perfect.

I decided to call it a night and headed back to my hostel, via the eerily quiet streets of the old town.

Good Morning Mostar

I woke up feeling good and hangover-free. I had booked myself on a free walking tour and I had enough time to have a coffee and something to eat. I headed back towards the old town, stopping to enjoy the views from the famous old bridge.

Once I entered the old town, I turned to take in a proper look at the iconic structure.

The streets were much more colourful than they had been the previous evening.

Mostar Coffee Shop

I had planned to grab a Bosnian coffee at a place called ‘Cafe De Alma’ (map) which had come recommended but, of course, it was closed. Instead, I had a very small but very strong espresso at a nice little music cafe called ‘Marshall Cafe’ (map).

I had a short amount of time before the free walking tour so I had a stroll around the old town which was really coming alive in the daylight.

Free Walking Tour In Mostar

I was surprised that the free walking tour was still available as I had seen barely any tourists in the city and my hostel was also empty. However, I had booked a tour at https://www.mostarfreewalkingtours.com/ the previous day so I headed to the meeting point. There was no-one there apart from one guy who was the tour guide. I was in two minds to just keep walking and not bother but I decided to take the tour.

The Crooked Bridge

Our first stop was ‘The Crooked Bridge’ (map) which was actually a dummy-run for the famous Stari Most and is actually the oldest bridge in the city.

We then went to the best viewing point of the famous Stari Most. My guide told me that it is tradition for residents to dive from the bridge into the freezing cold waters below. Many tourists have died from doing this so it is not advisable. If you are determined to do so, there is a diving school nearby who will prepare you and show you how to do so safely.

Kujundziluk

We then headed up ‘Kujundziluk Street’ (map) which is the bazaar street in the old town. Here you can buy local crafts and souvenirs. It is a beautiful, colourful street filled with local craftsmen.

You can visit the shops to see them working on their crafts which includes the recycling of old bombs.