Kalaw Travel Guide – Visit Kalaw – Budget Travel In Myanmar (Burma)

Originally founded as a hill station by the British, visit Kalaw for a cool climate and a relaxed atmosphere. It is often a starting point for travellers wishing to trek to Inle Lake.

Whilst in Bagan, we knew our next destination would be Inle Lake but we only found out about the trek when we saw posters offering the trip in our hostel. Some travellers had already done the trek and said it was a highlight of their travels, despite the rain making it more of a challenge. We decided to spend a couple of nights in Kalaw before trekking to Inle Lake.

Hot To Get To Kalaw From Bagan 

There are trains that run from Bagan to Kalaw but the trains are slow and stop at every village en route, meaning that travelling by bus is the preferred option for most people. We booked our bus online at http://jjexpress.net. Most buses in Mandalay travel by night and this was no exception.

A free shuttle bus picked us up from our hotel at around 9 pm and took us to the bus station where our bus was already waiting for us.

The timetable stated that we would be arriving in Kalaw at around 6 am but we actually arrived before 4 am. The distance between Bagan and Kalaw doesn’t seem so far but when you see the roads on Google Maps, it is easy to see why it takes so long.

Where To Stay In Kalaw

These are some of the best budget hostels in Kalaw, according to user reviews. These are affiliate links to the Agoda web site. I found Agoda to be much better than booking.com in Southeast Asia. I receive a small amount for any bookings made through these links at no extra cost to you.

• The Lodge Kalaw Hostel
• Parami Motel
• Richard’s Inn
• Camp Kalaw
• Dormitory @ Golden Kalaw Hotel
• Railroad Hotel
• Thitaw II

Sky Motel Kalaw

We arrived in Kalaw just before 4 am. We had booked a stay at ‘Sky Motel Kalaw’ (map), which was an 18 minute walk from the bus drop-off point. We walked through the dark streets of Kalaw, which were empty apart from the numerous street dogs that were thankfully not interested in our arrival.

We had told the hotel we would be arriving at around 6 am so we were not sure what to expect on our early arrival. The reception was open but there didn’t appear to be any members of staff around. We figured we could sit in the comfy chairs in reception and wait for the staff to arrive. However, as soon as we entered the hotel, two young boys popped up from behind the counter and proceeded to check us in. They must have been 14 years old at the most.

They took us to our room and we were very happy to be able to get into a comfy bed and have a good sleep. We effectively had a free night’s accommodation, which was most appreciated.

It was a good stay at Sky Motel. The WiFi wasn’t great and the shower took forever to heat up (I’m talking 15 minutes!) but they provided us with a good breakfast both mornings. We were the only people in the hotel so it was strange that they had so many staff working at any one time. All the staff were children, which was bizarre! I’m presuming it is a family-run hotel.

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We paid £21 for a two night stay in a double room with en-suite bathroom.

Click here to book a stay at ‘Sky Motel Kalaw’.

Things To Do In Kalaw

Most people use Kalaw as the starting point of a trek to Inle Lake. However, there is enough charm about the city to enjoy a couple of nights here.

Kalaw Market

There is a 5-day market that rotates between five days in the Inle area. Luckily, it happened to be in Kalaw on the day we were there. The streets of central Kalaw are transformed into an open-air market selling fresh fruits, vegetables, meat and fish.

Sprouting Seeds Cafe & Bakery

We were heading for coffee and we had heard of a place called ‘Sprouting Seeds’ (map), a ‘socal enterprise and training centre for local youth’ to learn about ‘healthy living, sustainability and environmental stewardship’.

It is a very relaxing environment and the staff were friendly. We had a good coffee and some breakfast. It’s a short walk from the centre but it is definitely worth a visit.

Kalaw Indoor Market

We then had a wander around the centre of Kalaw which was busy, probably due to the 5 day market. We found the ‘Kalaw Myoma Market’ (map) where we needed to look for some supplies for our upcoming trek. I needed some shoes as I was only in possession of flip-flops; not ideal for a 60 km walk.

Most of the stalls sold food and household items.

I did find a shoe shop that had what I was looking for. But first, we wanted to explore the city further.

Aung Chan Tha Pagoda

We exited the market and came across ‘Aung Chan Tha Pagoda’ (map), a pagoda that is covered in mirrors, creating quite a spectacle when the sunlight bounces off its exterior.

Thein Taung Monastery

We then headed to Kalaw view point to enjoy the best views over the town and to visit ‘Thein Taung Monastery’ (map). The views are more impressive than the monastery itself.

Myoma Monastery

Much more visually impressive was the ‘Myoma Monastery’ (map), located in the town centre. Visitors are welcome to explore the area and observe the teachings.

We then headed back to the market to buy shoes. After searching hard to find a pair that were big enough for my European feet, I was successful. My shoes cost under £3!

Our day exploring was over. It was time to head back to the hotel to chill before heading out again in the evening.

Bistro 29

In the evening, we headed out for food. We read that ‘Bistro 29’ (map) offered great views over the city and this was correct.

We sat munching on complimentary sunflower seeds, which made a change from peanuts, waiting for our food to arrive. I had western cravings so ordered from the European menu.

My food satisfied my cravings but Joanna’s fish wasn’t properly cooked in places. I would have sent it back but she just left the parts that were uncooked. Fairly average all round.

Hi Snacks & Drinks

We then headed to the only bar in town: ‘Hi Snacks & Drinks’ (map). We felt a bit awkward on entering as it is a very small bar and was filled with locals. They very quickly made us feel welcome and offered us seats at the bar. The locals were playing guitar and having a good singalong.

They then offered me the guitar. I played a version of ‘Port of Amsterdam’ which obviously no-one knew but I did get an appreciative applause. Over the evening, I tried to cater to the locals by playing songs I was sure they must know. Bob Marley, Pink Floyd… no recognition. It just shows how little Myanmar has been influenced by western culture. Some of them did recognise a Beatles tune and then I was asked if I could play ‘Hallelujah’.

The bar sells no beer: just whiskey, rum and gin sours at 2,000 MKK each. The owner was very friendly and kept us topped up with tea leaf salad and samosas. He explained he opened the bar 23 years ago, to much grumbling among the local Buddhist community.

We had a fantastic evening in ‘Hi’ bar. We never imagined that, in all our travels across South East Asia, one of our favourite bars would be a tiny speakeasy in a small town in Myanmar! Of course, we were the last to leave. If you are ever in Kalaw, you must visit Hi Bar.

Cafe Kalaw

The next day, we had a predictably slow start. We tried to walk to a temple but a sudden downpour put a stop to that plan. Half an hour later, the rain stopped so we tried again. It was a half hour walk to the temple and on the way we came across ‘Cafe Kalaw’ (map). We stopped for a good coffee and a sandwich.

Hnee Pagoda Kalaw

It was only a further 10 minutes walk to the ‘Hnee Pagoda Kalaw’ (map). We climbed the stairs to the temple. Behind the temple at the top of the hill was another temple that is home to the ‘Bamboo Buddha’.

We were given tea and tea leaf salad in the temple. No-one spoke English but the people were very friendly. We stayed for a short while then made the way back to Kalaw.

Gloria Restaurant

In the evening, we stayed local to the hotel and went for food at ‘Gloria Restaurant’ (map). The portions were huge and the food was decent.

Is Kalaw Worth Visiting?

Most people visit Kalaw as a starting point for the trek to Inle Lake. I felt that it is worth more than a night stay. It is a quiet town but there is definitely enough to keep your interest for a couple of nights. Make sure you go to Hi Bar and spend an evening getting drunk with the locals!