Visit Muang Ngoy (Muang Ngoi) to experience a small riverside village in Northern Laos with a population of 700. It is becoming increasingly popular with backpackers looking for less obvious destinations.
When we were planning to travel in South East Asia, we wondered where we would be to see in the New Year. Bangkok? Hanoi? As it happened, we ended up spending it in the tiny village of Muang Ngoy (sometimes known as Muang Ngoi Neua).
Travelling In Laos
We loved our time in Laos but it is not an easy country to get around. Whilst the distances between each place we visited were not great, the roads are winding and of poor quality. This meant we ran out of places to visit as they were simply too far away for us to visit if we wanted to continue on to north Vietnam.
Once we had decided to travel from Vientiane to Vang Vieng and then on to Luang Prabang, we became stuck. I had read about the small town of Nong Khiaw which we decided to add to our itinerary. Once we booked our stay there, I then discovered a place further north that was even smaller. It can only be reached by boat.
Muang Ngoy (sometimes referred to as Muang Ngoi) is a small village with a population of just 700 peope. It has no ATMs, no street lights and has only had electricity since 2013. Just the place to see in the New Year!
How To Get To Muang Ngoy From Nong Khiaw
There is no road from Nong Khiaw to Muang Ngoy so you have to take a boat. Boats leave twice daily from Nong Khiaw at 10.30 am and 2.30 pm. It is a good idea to visit the harbour in advance to make sure the times are still the same. I got the impression that the sign had not been changed for a long time. We went in advance to get information and this is what we found.
Muang Ngoy boat office. Not very helpful.
The price was 25,000 kip for a one way ticket. We were advised to get there early as sometimes the boat leaves early but this was not the case. There were plenty of people waiting and it took so long to get everyone on numerous boats, we didn’t leave until around 11.30 am.
Taking A Boat From Nong Khiaw To Muang Ngoy
The boat ride itself was stunning. Try not to sit at the back as the engine is much louder there. Try to get a ‘window’ seat for obvious reasons.
The boat takes you north of Nong Khiaw, up the Nam Ou river. On the journey, we saw fishermen, small riverside communities, goats and buffalo. The views are wonderful and you will forget that you used this boat as a means of public transport and not as a leisurely trip.
Heading up the Nam Ou river towards Muang Ngoy.
Stunning views on the Nam Ou river.
Arriving in Muang Ngoy
After about one hour, we saw Muang Ngoy coming into view on the east side of the river. Our first thought was how small it was. Muang Ngoy makes Nong Khiaw seem like Bangkok!
Arriving in Muang Ngoy.
Where To Stay In Muang Ngoy
There are a few guesthouses in Muang Ngoy; some offering river and mountain views. Depending on the season, it may be better to book ahead as they may be full during busier times. When we visited Muang Ngoy, there were a number of places with vacancies at much lower rates than we paid with booking.com. It’s a risk only you can decide whether to take.
Either way, you will be ‘welcomed’ into the town by owners of local businesses desperate to inform you about their restaurant or guesthouse. The manager of the guesthouse we had booked was there to meet us and help us locate our accommodation.
Muang Ngoy ‘High Street’.
It was a really odd feeling walking into the town. It felt like arriving at a festival but also like we were intruding on people’s lives. This was easily the most remote place we had visited so far.
CLICK HERE TO VIEW ALL ACCOMMODATION IN MUANG NGOY!
These are some of the best budget hostels in Muang Ngoi, according to user reviews. These are affiliate links to the Agoda web site. I found Agoda to be much better than booking.com in Southeast Asia. I receive a small amount for any bookings made through these links at no extra cost to you.
Riverview Bungalows & Guesthouse
We opted to stay at ‘Riverview Bungalows & Guesthouse’ (map). This is one of those places that looks amazing in the photos when you book, but the reality is less impressive.
Having said that, the beds were comfy and clean, the shower worked and the WiFi was surprisingly good. My advice is to give this place a chance. Like the village itself, it took some getting used to and was a bit of a shock on arrival but it soon won us over.
My office in Muang Ngoy.
You should expect power cuts during your time here. When it happens, there is also no water and the whole village comes to a standstill. Be patient. It usually doesn’t take long to start working again.
I felt that the accommodation was good but a little expensive. It was one of the cheapest online but when we arrived we saw other places offering much cheaper rooms.
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Click here to book a stay at ‘Riverview Bungalows & Guesthouse’
Food & Drink in Muang Ngoy
Despite the size of the village, there were a number of restaurants to choose from and some of them were very good!
Bamboo Garden
Bamboo Garden offers a small menu but excellent food. Everything was cooked to order and we enjoying relaxing, enjoying a drink on the comfy floor cushions and sitting in the garden. Recommended.
Casual eating at Bamboo Garden.
Massaman chicken curry at Bamboo Garden.
Gecko Restaurant
Situated on the main street (look for the 7-Eleven sign), Gecko Restaurant was the only place that could still serve food during a power cut. They serve good sandwiches and coffee here.
On New Year’s Eve, we came here for the cocktail happy hour and ended up eating here once we realised not much else was open. I had a great yellow curry and Joanna had a dish called ‘Suzy’ which was excellent. Muang Ngoy is the only place we have seen this dish. It’s a must-try! They closed at 11.30 pm on New Year’s Eve. As everything else was also closed, it meant we celebrated New Year on our balcony. Luckily, I had bought some beers in advance in preparation. They do not celebrate New Year in Muang Ngoy! (Map).
Muang Ngoy: not a party town!
Gecko Restaurant
Veranda Cafe
We ate here twice and both times it was good. The second time the owner appeared straight from his bath to make our food! It’s one of those places where you feel you are eating in their front room! TYou must try the pumpkin curry (Map).
Things To Do In Muang Ngoy
As it is such a small town, there is not a great deal to do. The town shuts down around 11 pm. There were treks and trips available from the local tour companies but we chose to explore by ourselves. Here are some of the best things to do in Muang Ngoi.
Ban Na
A small village untouched by tourism (the only signs that tourists visit here are donation boxes for the local school). Visiting here felt a bit intrusive at times but the locals are happy when you use their cafe and/or donate to the school. Joanna saw locals roasting a dog. If this causes you offence, it’s probably best to stay away. This is their lives and you should not judge. Map (map is of a local restaurant in the village).
Ban Na is about 90 minutes walk from Muang Ngoy and you will see some amazing views along the way. Keep going past Tham Kang Cave. As always in Laos, stay to the main path. This area was heavily bombed during the Vietnam war and there are likely to be many un-exploded bombs in the area.
Views on the way to Ban Na.
Ban Na village.
Ban Na village.
Ban Na village.
Explore The Main Street Of Muang Ngoy
It will take you all of 10 minutes to walk from one end of the main street to the other! There are local crafts to be found among the restaurants and convenience stores, available at good prices. It’s probably best not to haggle here as this is their only source of income and everything is handmade and cheap. You might find some shocks along the way!
How much for the pig head?
Tham Kang Cave
Follow the road that leads from the boat drop off point and it will eventually lead you to the cave. Note that google maps places the road elsewhere (use satellite version instead). We made the mistake of following directions from another blog and it took us a while to find a road that should have been very easy to find. The cave provided shelter for locals during the Vietnam War. It’s quite small and easy to explore. Be warned: you may see some weird creep-crawlies in there! (Map).
Joanna enters Tham Kang Cave.
Visit The Temple
Located at the far north end of the main street is a small temple. You will see much more impressive temples than this on your travels but it is worth a look all the same. Map.
Is Muang Ngoy Worth Visiting?
Being in Muang Ngoy felt like being at a festival for three days: especially after the rain made the place very muddy for a while. If you like your home comforts too much, it probably isn’t for you. We loved it though. Nong Khiaw felt like a big city when we returned. It was definitely one of the more unique places we had visited so far on our trip.
